Grapecraft

2005 CheapSkate Surly Chenin Blanc

I love chenin blanc. To many winemakers, it is far nobler than chardonnay, presenting itself with bracing freshness when young, but also ageing far more gracefully and dependably because of its structure and its propensity to extract mineral energy from the soil.

Joe Salman’s Clarksburg vineyard has produced many of California’s finest Chenin Blancs. In this rendition, I chose a moderate ripeness to accentuate the driving pear and jasmine aromas and bracing acidity which characterize the Loire. Such fruit contains ample tannin to build a rich structure, though dauntingly astringent when young which French winemakers soften via yeast contact.

People talk about grassiness in Sauvignon Blanc, but in truth, if you actually mow your grass and go out in the driveway and smell it, it smells like ripe Chenin Blanc. This aspect must be well integrated into the aroma by crafting a fine, dense structure. To complete the structure, we held sur lies for seven months, stirring twice weekly to coat the tannins. This structure imparts properties of aromatic integration to the wine by providing colloids which draw fragrances into the body of the wine and refine their impact into a subtle herb note.

No surprise that this wine loves fish. It also possesses the richness for ripe brie, herbed chicken, or even charcuterie. Then do yourself the favor of laying a case away for a decade to accompany your Christmas goose in 2015.

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